In this post, you will find:

• Why Teach Dogs New Tricks?

• My Dog Isn't Smart Enough for That!

• How to Set Your Dog Up for Success

• Fun and Useful Tricks to Teach Your Dog

  - Take a Selfie

  - Beep Beep

  - Weaving

  - Opening and Closing Doors

  -Putting Toys Away

  
  

Did you know that just 20 minutes of mental stimulation can be as enriching as a full hour’s walk for your dog?

All dogs are capable of learning. Some may prefer scent work over tricks, and that’s brilliant. The key is working with your dog’s strengths and preferences, not against them.

If your dog enjoys performing tricks, this post is for you.

Hey, TJ here from The Gibbons House!

Today we’re exploring 5 fun and useful tricks you can teach your dog. Whether you’re building confidence, deepening your bond, or just looking for a new way to play, these ideas are a great place to start.

I rescued a German Shepherd-Husky cross in 2022 called Anayah. To read about her story, click here!

Anayah is a fast learner. Trick training is one of her favourite things to do, she absolutely loves it. It is not her learning that slows us down, it is me finding new tricks to teach her. I am the one who cannot keep up!

Most of the tutorials I found were for basics like sit, lie down, stay, paw, and so on. I needed harder, more complicated tricks, and I needed ways to advance them, change them, and develop them.

So this post will cover more complex tricks, along with ways to make them harder as you go. All of the tricks listed are fun, but some are useful to teach, too! Like Beep Beep.

Why teach dogs new tricks?

Dogs love to learn.

Most do, anyway.

Even the “laziest” breeds need stimulation, and trick training suits many dogs well.

Have you ever found your dog wired at the end of the day, despite walks, play, and meals?

Chances are, they aren't getting enough mental stimulation.

You can physically tire a dog out as much as possible, but if their brain has not been worked, they may act like an overtired toddler. Increasing their exercise is only going to improve their stamina, meaning they will need more exercise to be tired.

Without enough mental stimulation, they may start demanding attention, chewing furniture, or spiraling into stress. Some dogs even become hyperactive, reactive or aggressive.

Teaching tricks is just one way to add enrichment to your dog’s daily routine. It builds trust, respect, and a stronger bond. A dog who trusts you is easier to train, better behaved, and more reliable.

For more information about the benefits of mental enrichment and 10 enrichment ideas for your dog, check out this blog post!

"My Dog Isn't Smart Enough for That!"

Nope. We do not do that kind of talk here. That is you projecting your own fears onto your dog.

While some breeds may be considered “smarter” than others, all dogs are capable of learning when given the right environment, motivation, and teaching.

Some dogs may not enjoy trick training, or their brains may not be wired for it, but that does not mean they are not smart enough to learn. It just means you have not found their strength yet. They may be better at scent work, agility, fly ball, ratting, or landscaping your garden—maybe not the best outlet for their energy, but still!

Jack Russell Terriers, for example, were bred to be ratters. That means they are high energy dogs with fierce independence. Does this mean they are untrainable? Of course not! It just means you need to work with what motivates the dog, not what you wish would motivate them.

So if your dog “isn’t smart enough,” pause and ask, are you giving them the right outlet, the right motivation, and the right kind of challenge? Intelligence shows up in different ways. Your job is to notice it, not dismiss it.

How to Set Your Dog Up for Success

If you still think that teaching your dog tricks is something they will enjoy and benefit from, awesome! Let's now dive into how to train new tricks properly and set your dog up for success.

Susan Garrett, world-renowned dog trainer, educator, and agility competitor, has a go-to quote. She says:

In other words, you are responsible for the success or failure of your dogs behaviour. There is no sugar coating it! If you teach your dog in the right way and in the correct environment, you'll see progress. It's like giving someone a car and expecting them to just know how to drive it safely without any lessons or previous experience.

Some tips before we get into the tricks -

• Always start teaching a new trick in an environment your dog is comfortable in to minimise distractions. Begin in the living room. When your dog is consistently performing there, move to the dining room, then the back garden, then the front garden, and so on.

  Training a behaviour in only one place will not cement the learning. Your dog will only know how to perform in that particular environment.

• Be consistent in your marking. A marker is a word or sound you use to let your dog know, “That was correct, do it again!” This could be “Yes,” “Good,” or a clicker. Whatever you choose, it must be unique to marking behaviour, so avoid words or sounds you use frequently.

• The reward you use will vary depending on your dog. Some dogs are happy working for kibble, others may need higher motivation treats like chicken or sausages. If you increase reward food during the day, lower their meal intake to prevent weight gain.

• Use toys, play, or a good ear scratch as a reward for dogs who are not food motivated.

• Use normal dog kibble for dogs on a diet or for high-energy dogs. Making them work for their dinner can be a great way to tire them out while still offering a reward.

• Do not get disheartened if it does not work the first time, or the fifth. Keep trying!

• If your dog gets confused, go back a step. It's better to progress too slowly then too fast.

• Do not lure your dog into the desired position. Let them figure out what you want. This shapes the behaviour, builds confidence, and avoids the need to fade out the lure later.

• Dog's may become frustrated, distracted or demonstrate displacement (sniffing, scratching, pacing) behaviour. This is all normal for when we are trying to teach them something new. Don't give in!

• This is not a quick process for many dogs. Keep sessions short and frequent, and always end on a high!

To read up on the difference between Luring and Shaping a behaviour, check out this blog post!

Fun and Useful Tricks to Teach Your Dog

When training a new trick, I always introduce both a physical and a verbal cue. Not only does this allow for fun training where you alternate between the two, but it also means you can cue a behaviour no matter what!

If your dog is out of earshot or you lose your voice when ill, you can still give the cue. If your dog goes blind or deaf, you have an alternative cue for the same behaviour.

Dogs will always respond to visual cues before verbal ones, so it is important to ensure they can respond to one without relying on the other.

Keep reading for more information about each one, the cue words and hand signals I use for them, how I taught them and how you can make them harder when your dog understands them.

1 . Take a selfie

This one is so much fun, and useful for when you want a cute photo of you and your dog and don't have someone to be your photographer.

The first command you need to teach your dog is 'Paws Up'. This is where a dog will put their paws on a raised surface.

To shape the Paws Up behaviour, you will need a low stall or raised surface. This surface must be safe and stable for your dog to step onto.

Start in a room with minimal distractions, with your dog off lead. Stand next to the raised surface and wait. Do not encourage your dog to the stall, do not speak, and do not move! You can look directly at the stall if you need to give them a hint, but that's as much as you can do. This may take some time, be patient. Do not rush the process!

When your dog shows any interest in the stall, such as stepping towards it, smelling it, or looking at it, use your marker and deliver a reward. This sign of interest will look different for every dog, so go with the behaviour your dog offers.

Once your dog is consistently engaging with the stall, withhold the marker and reward until they offer more. This may be touching it with their nose or paw, sniffing it, or stepping closer. So long as it is a step towards the desired behaviour and progress from the previous behaviour, mark and reward.

To progress, continue this process until your dog is placing one paw, then both paws, onto the stall. They must step off the stall and back on it again to earn the reward, staying on it will not earn them anything!

To cement the learning, throw a treat away from the stall for your dog to chase. When they return to you, they should now start putting their Paws Up!

When they begin to offer this behaviour regularly you can add a verbal cue. I use "Paws Up".

Your sessions should be no longer than 10 minutes, and they should always end on a win. You can do several sessions a day.

If, when you return to the game, your dog seems confused, go back a few steps to remind them of the rules.

If you are happy that your dog understands the cue in several locations, you can start to increase the height of the object you are asking them to Paws Up onto. This could be a chair, a step, or anything so long as it is safe and stable. I recommend avoiding the couch if your dog is allowed on it, as they may just jump up instead!

You also need to increase the duration your dog can hold the position. To do this, slowly increase the time between them doing the behaviour and you rewarding them. Then start taking a step back, and then then two etc.

Once the behaviour is being performed consistently, you can move to Selfie.

Now you need to be on the same level as your dog. I find kneeling or sitting on the floor works best, so both of you are closer to the ground in case you get knocked over by your furball.

You also need to consider the size of your dog. If they are small, they may struggle to reach you. When I have done this with Cookie, a Terrier cross, she has to be on the sofa with me sat on the floor in front of it so she can reach me!

I suggest wearing a thicker jumper when trying this for the first time, as their claws may scratch you if they slip off. Your dog needs to be behind you.

Tap your shoulder and say your cue for Paws Up. Once your dog has their paws on your shoulder, say “Yes,” or use a clicker, treat, and then say the cue you want to use for this trick. I use “Take a Selfie” with Anayah.

Once they get the hang of it, start getting your phone and snapping adorable selfies of you and your companion!

My physical signal for this is me crouching, kneeling or standing on a surface in front of Anayah and tapping my shoulder, but as soon as she is behind me and I get down low, she is already on my shoulder, I don't get time to say the cue anymore!

Advancement

Once your dog understands Take a Selfie, you can make it more advanced by teaching them to switch shoulders, look at the camera or smile.

Each variation adds a layer of challenge, focus, and coordination. You are not just building a trick, you are building trust and body awareness.

2. 'Beep Beep' - Back up

Not only is this fun to teach and easy to slot into routines and other tricks, it is also useful when your dog is in the way or standing somewhere they should not be. Instead of telling Anayah “Out” when she is in the kitchen, I say “Beep Beep.”

Start with your dog stood in front, facing you. Take a small step forward and wait. If your dog takes a step back, mark and reward them. Do not add the command word yet. You are just marking the behaviour.

If your dog does not step back, pause and wait. You are looking for any shift in weight, paw movement, or hesitation that shows they are thinking about backing up. The moment they offer anything towards the desired behaviour, mark and reward.

Repeat until they consistently offer a backwards step when you step forward.

Once they have got the hang of it, wait for two steps before marking and rewarding, then three, and so on until they are consistently walking backwards.

When the behaviour is consistent and clean, you can start adding your command word just before they do it. I use “Beep Beep,” because it is more fun than “Back Up.”

The hand signal I use for this is I hold my hand low in a fist in front of me in front of her nose.

Tip - If you have a narrow corridor, a walkway behind your sofa or another form of narrow space, you can use this to help your dog stay in a straight line and reduce side steps!

Advancement

I use Beep Beep in other tricks and movements. One of them is when Anayah is in Middle—stood between my legs facing forward—and I step backwards. I wait for her to offer the movement, then mark and reward. Once she is consistently moving with me, I start saying Beep Beep just before we step, so we move in sync.

Another is when Anayah is in heel. I step back, wait for her to stay next to me, then mark and reward. Once she is reliably offering the movement, I add Beep Beep just before stepping back.

3. Weaving

This trick can be performed between weaving poles or your legs as you walk.

It can be a bit awkward to teach if your dog is easily distracted, but it is worth it! It's fun, not to mention it's a great party trick to wow your mates. If "Dog Dancing" is something you're into, this is a very commonly used move.

You will need a fair amount of space, preferably a long stretch. Make sure there is nothing you or your dog can walk into while you are both distracted with the training. Remember, start somewhere low-distraction before progressing.

I started teaching Anayah this between my legs as I walked, since I do not often have access to weave poles. When we did try poles for the first time, the transition was fairly easy. She already understood the movement!

Start with your dog in Heel. This is where they begin and end the trick every time when leg weaving.

You want to start slowly so your pup does not trip you up. Step forward with the leg furthest from your dog, slightly wider than a usual step, and wait.

If your dog moves towards the gap between your legs, mark and reward. Wait for any shift in weight, movement, or curiosity that shows they are thinking about it. You are shaping the behaviour, not prompting it. Once they pass through to the other side, step forward with your opposite leg and wait again. Mark and reward when they offer the movement.

Repeat from heel to heel until your dog is reliably offering the weave.

Once the behaviour is consistent, you can add your cue word just before they do it. I use “Weave.” Your physical cue here will be them in heel and you taking an exagerated step foward.

You can then begin to increase the number of weaves your dog does in a row.

If you are doing this on weave poles, start with your dog sitting at the beginning of the poles on one side. Wait for them to offer movement around the first pole. Mark and reward any attempt to curve or shift in the right direction. Once they are reliably weaving around two poles, you can add your cue word and build from there. Same principle, just without you as the subject of weaving.

Advancement

Once your dog is reliably weaving, you can:

• Walk while they weave to build fluency

• Add more weaves before marking

• Use Weave as a transition between tricks

4 . Open and Close a Door Using a Toy

This one is great fun, and can be practical too! I have taught Anayah to open her dog cupboard, so if she wants anything from it, she has to open it for me.

It adds another layer of enrichment to her day, another chance for her to make choices, and I could easily extend it to other doors around the house.

The only issue is that your dog may become so used to opening doors that they help themselves to treats and never give you any privacy. Ever again.

To shape this, start with a lightweight door and a tug toy or rope loop attached to the handle. Reinforce any offered interaction with the toy. This could be a sniff, moving towards it, nudging it. When they are offering that behaviour consistently, wait for something closer to the one you want, and so on. Mark and reward progress. Once the behaviour is consistent, add a cue.

For closing, if your dog already knows touch or target, you can use that command near the door to see if they transfer the behaviour. If so, repeat until they offer it consistently, then add a new cue like “Close”.

If they don’t know touch, or struggle to transfer it, shape the behaviour. You can use a target on the door, like a sticker. Reinforce any engagement with the target, then only reward offered nose or paw contact, then only reward when they offer a push that moves the door. Mark and reward when the door closes, and add a separate cue once the behaviour is reliable.

Practise on different doors once the dog understands the task. Keep sessions short and reinforce calm engagement throughout.

Remember, once the dog is offering a behaviour closer to the one you want, don’t reward them again until they offer something more.

Advancement

You can explore so many options with this, from getting your dog to open and close doors throughout the house to accessing rooms or the garden. You could expand on it and teach them to get you a beer from the fridge. The world is your oyster!

This is a handy trick for owners with disabilities, too, as it can reduce energy used and starts teaching your dog ways to help you, a bit like a service dog would.

5 . Putting Toys Away

In a similar way to the last one, this gives your dog another job to do once they know the rules of the game.

At the end of most days, I will get Anayah to collect her toys and put them into her crate where they live. This not only keeps my house tidyer, but increases her engagement and mental stimulation. Dogs love to have jobs, and if this becomes part of your routine, I garuntee you'll start to see a more independant and confident dog.

To shape this, start with a box or basket placed near your dog’s toys. Reinforce any offered interaction with a toy near the box. Wait for a behaviour closer to picking it up, then shape a lift or carry. Once they’re reliably picking up the toy, wait for movement towards the box. Reinforce progress, then shape a drop into the box. Add a cue once the full behaviour is consistent. My cue of choice is "Bring it."

If your dog already knows “drop” or “give”, you can use that once they’re over the box. If not, shape the release separately. Practise with different toys and box placements to build fluency.

Advancement

Once your dog is reliably putting toys away, you can start teaching the name of each toy. Reinforce when they interact with one specific toy while you say its name. Repeat until they consistently associate the name with that toy. Then cue the name and reinforce when they choose the correct one.

Once they can identify multiple toys by name, you can cue them to bring back specific ones. This adds a layer of choice and memory to the task, and you can expand it to sorting or fetching.

Teaching tricks like these isn’t just about showing off or keeping your dog busy. It’s about building a shared language, one that’s rooted in choice, trust, and mutual understanding. Each behaviour becomes a conversation. Each session becomes a chance for your dog to offer something, to be heard, and to shape the outcome.

Whether it’s opening a cupboard, tidying up toys, or choosing the right one by name, these tricks give your dog agency. They’re not just performing, they’re participating. And that shift—from obedience to collaboration—is where the real magic happens.

It’s also where the joy lives. The moment your dog picks the right toy, or shuts the door with a flourish, or decides to tidy up mid-play just because they can. These aren’t just tasks. They’re tiny rituals of connection. And they remind us that training, at its best, is a shared creative process.

So whether you’re shaping a new behaviour or refining an old one, keep it light, keep it clear, and keep it rooted in choice. Your dog will thank you—in their own way. And you’ll both end up with a home that’s just a little more alive and a lot more fun.

Give these a go with your fury friend and let me know how you get on in the comments or on social media!

Do you have any other awesome tricks that you think should be on this list? Pop me a message or leave a comment and I'll do another post with more fun tricks on!